Paul Benjamin Osterlund
@paulosterlund.bsky.social
📤 2431
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Istanbul-based independent journalist. Check out my Substack FLANÖR flanor.substack.com
My latest:
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Flanör Journals #4: An Ode to the Berlin U-Bahn
Delayed trains and expensive tickets notwithstanding, Berlin's shabby yet steadfast metro system is the best way to explore the capital. Every time I'm here I ride the U-Bahn as much as I can.
https://open.substack.com/pub/flanor/p/flanor-journals-4-an-ode-to-the-berlin?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android&r=531qf
2 months ago
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Güzel el yapımı limonata nasıl yapılır ve İstanbul'da nerede içilir? Detaylar yeni yazımda:
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Ferah, renkli, cazip ve leziz
Yaz mevsiminde İstanbul çok sıcak. Elbette soğuk içecekler böylesi zamanlarda ferahlatıcı oluyor. Ama limonatanın yeri başka! O parlak sarı rengi bile...
https://www.hurriyet.com.tr/kelebek/lezzetli-hayat/ferah-renkli-cazip-ve-leziz-42874564
5 months ago
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My latest for Culinary Backstreets on Mezme, a fantastic tiny meyhane in Kurtuluş featuring Sasun Estukyan's superb mezes and baked delicacies, inspired by Istanbul Armenian cuisine and that of Vakıflı/Samandağ:
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Delicious Meze at Mezme in Kurtuluş, Istanbul
Mezme is back: an excellent meze deli and meyhane in Istanbul’s Kurtuluş neighborhood.
https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/istanbul/2025/mezme/
5 months ago
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My latest:
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An Alarming Attack in the Heart of Beyoğlu
An extremist mob attacked the headquarters of LeMan--a satirical magazine--on the false grounds that it published a cartoon depicting the Prophet Muhammad. The ensuing footage was disturbing.
https://flanor.substack.com/p/an-alarming-attack-in-the-heart-of
5 months ago
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My latest:
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Antakya, Two Years Later
I visited the city that has not left my heart since the February 2023 earthquakes. These are my humble reflections:
https://flanor.substack.com/p/antakya-two-years-later
5 months ago
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My latest for Culinary Backstreets about Kavurmacı Goze, Istanbul's reigning champion of braised beef:
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Kavurmacı Goze: Carefully Cooking Turkey's 'Most Traditional' Dish
Kavurmacı Goze specializes in one thing and one thing only: kavurma. Carefully-selected cuts of beef are sliced into cubes and braised in a hulking copper cauldron over a wood fire for 3-4 hours until...
https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/istanbul/2025/kavurmaci-goze/?fbclid=IwY2xjawLAymVleHRuA2FlbQIxMQBicmlkETFHMEw5M1FsZTJ1UFZpM011AR76jb-NWS0P5YSugsgBVKTOe-6SwbLYJc35ZpRxlA-HrY4wNG0bmOJ7TCUWcQ_aem_l4esg_fKhYj5mqPVlSZG9Q
5 months ago
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Yeni yazım:
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‘Kavurma aslında bizim en geleneksel yemeğimizdir’
İstanbul’da son birkaç yıl içinde adında ‘kavurmacı’ geçen birçok işletme hızla açıldı. Ve bu ‘yeni nesil’ kavurmacılardan çok önce, Kavurmacı Goze vardı....
https://www.hurriyet.com.tr/kelebek/lezzetli-hayat/kavurma-aslinda-bizim-en-geleneksel-yemegimizdir-42838269
6 months ago
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Excited to announce that we’ve launched a Culinary Backstreets Istanbul Instagram account! Follow us @ culinarybackstreetslstanbul for great food and great stories from The City.
7 months ago
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My latest:
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Is Bayramoğlu Istanbul’s Best Döner?
In Istanbul, döner is practically synonymous with Bayramoğlu, an institution that brings crowds of people from throughout the city who queue up for some of the best spit-roasted meat in the city.
https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/istanbul/2025/bayramoglu/
7 months ago
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reposted by
Paul Benjamin Osterlund
My latest on the passing of Sırrı Süreyya Önder, the attack on Özgür Özel, and the peace process:
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A Memorial Ceremony and an Attack
There was a memorial ceremony for iconic politician Sırrı Süreyya Önder on May 4 in Istanbul. Main opposition leader Özgür Özel was attacked while leaving. Just another day in the Turkish news cycle.
https://flanor.substack.com/p/a-memorial-ceremony-and-an-attack
7 months ago
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My latest on the passing of Sırrı Süreyya Önder, the attack on Özgür Özel, and the peace process:
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A Memorial Ceremony and an Attack
There was a memorial ceremony for iconic politician Sırrı Süreyya Önder on May 4 in Istanbul. Main opposition leader Özgür Özel was attacked while leaving. Just another day in the Turkish news cycle.
https://flanor.substack.com/p/a-memorial-ceremony-and-an-attack
7 months ago
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Hürriyet gazetesine İstanbul'daki en sevdiğim Antakya mekanlarından bahsettim:
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İstanbul’da Hatay yemeklerini en iyi yapan 10 mekân: Hatay’a gitmeden...
Mezeler, kebaplar, tatlılar... Hatay mutfağı eşsiz lezzetleriyle Türkiye’nin en özel gastronomi duraklarından. İstanbul’da bu tatları aslına en yakın haliyle...
https://www.hurriyet.com.tr/kelebek/lezzetli-hayat/istanbulda-hatay-yemeklerini-en-iyi-yapan-10-mekan-hataya-gitmeden-42778447
7 months ago
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reposted by
Paul Benjamin Osterlund
Aposto
7 months ago
"Boşnaklar 20. yüzyılın başlarından itibaren çeşitli göç dalgalarıyla İstanbul’un farklı mahallelerine yerleşti." Balkanlar'dan Anadolu’ya: Bir göç mutfağı hikayesi.
@paulosterlund.bsky.social
yazdı.
aposto.com/s/balkanlard...
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Aposto | Balkanlar'dan Anadolu’ya: Bir göç mutfağı hikayesi
Fotoğraflar: Elif Kahveci 19. yüzyılın sonlarından itibaren Osmanlı İmparatorluğu’nun Balkanlar’daki hakimiyetinin zayıflaması ve 1878 Berlin Antlaşması sonrası Bosna-Hersek’in Avusturya-Maca...
https://aposto.com/s/balkanlardan-anadoluya-bir-goc-mutfagi-hikayesi
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Balkanlar'dan Anadolu'ya: Bir göçmen mutfağı hikayesi
@aposto.com
Apéro için Pendik/Sapanbağları ve oradaki Boşnak mutfağı kültürünü yazdım:
aposto.com/s/balkanlard...
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Aposto | Balkanlar'dan Anadolu’ya: Bir göç mutfağı hikayesi
Fotoğraflar: Elif Kahveci 19. yüzyılın sonlarından itibaren Osmanlı İmparatorluğu’nun Balkanlar’daki hakimiyetinin zayıflaması ve 1878 Berlin Antlaşması sonrası Bosna-Hersek’in Avusturya-Maca...
https://aposto.com/s/balkanlardan-anadoluya-bir-goc-mutfagi-hikayesi
7 months ago
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Uğur Büfe: Rich Flavors, Proletarian Prices
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Uğur Büfe
In Kurtuluş, we've only just discovered this 40-year-old gem serving top-notch chicken doner and daily home-cooked dishes at prices lower than anywhere else in the neighborhood.
https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/istanbul/2025/ugur-bufe/
8 months ago
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burası tüvitır gibi olmaya başladı artık 😂
add a skeleton here at some point
8 months ago
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reposted by
Paul Benjamin Osterlund
Ece Deniz
8 months ago
Söyleşiye göz atmak isteyenler için bırakayım:
www.diken.com.tr/ilhan-sami-c...
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İlhan Sami Çomak: 30 yıldan sonra sıfırdan başlıyorum - Diken
22/12/2024 - 30 yıllık hapisliğin ardından şair İlhan Sami Çomak, yeni hayatını şöyle özetliyor: "Ben 30 yıldan sonra sıfırdan başlıyorum. Akbil basmayı yeni yeni öğreniyorum. Sokakta insanlara dokunm...
https://www.diken.com.tr/ilhan-sami-comak-30-yildan-sonra-sifirdan-basliyorum/
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reposted by
Paul Benjamin Osterlund
Ece Deniz
8 months ago
Bugün 'İlhan Sami Çomak: 30 yıldan sonra sıfırdan başlıyorum' söyleşimle Türkiye Gazeteciler Cemiyeti (TGC) İnternet-Röportaj dalında ilk ödülümü aldım. Ödülün birazı benimse çoğundan çoğu İlhan'ındır.
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Feeding People Amid Protests: Istanbul's City Restaurants My latest for Culinary Backstreets on the politics of an affordable meal:
culinarybackstreets.com/cities-categ...
8 months ago
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Having said this, it’s nice to see more people coming over here//Bununla birlikte daha fazla insanların buraya gelmesine sevindim
add a skeleton here at some point
8 months ago
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yeni yazım:
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Aposto | Bir perde kapanırken: Rexx ve bağımsız sinemaların sessiz vedası
1962’den beri şehrin simgesel mekanlarından olan Rexx Sineması , İstanbul’un sinema kültüründe apayrı bir yer tutuyordu. Rexx herhangi bir sinema salonu değil, bir hafıza mekanıydı. 2020’de kapıların...
https://aposto.com/s/bir-perde-kapanirken-rexx-ve-bagimsiz-sinemalarin
8 months ago
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reposted by
Paul Benjamin Osterlund
Turkey recap
8 months ago
In the face of growing arrest numbers, government bans on demonstrations and public transportation closures, massive rallies are expected to continue every evening this week, not just in İstanbul but also in other major cities throughout Turkey.
@paulosterlund.bsky.social
reports from Saraçhane:
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Street clashes to continue in Turkey’s largest protests since Gezi
İSTANBUL — Under light rain and heavy pepper spray, a large crowd of protestors stood their ground against riot police in Saraçhane, İstanbul, Sunday night.
https://www.turkeyrecap.com/p/street-clashes-to-continue-in-turkeys
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Friends: this platform is fine but it will never have the reach of Twitter/X. Let’s be realistic. I mostly post there, so if you want my opinions that’s where you’ll find them, I just share my articles here.
8 months ago
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reposted by
Paul Benjamin Osterlund
Monica Marks
9 months ago
Excellent 🧵 on the youth-driven protests against the lawlessness of Erdogan’s authoritarianism spreading across Turkey right now. Pay special attention to
@paulosterlund.bsky.social
’s final three tweets. Police crackdowns have been massive post-Gezi. But today’s young people are angrier & poorer.
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Paul Benjamin Osterlund
My latest: This compelling 1986 film directed by Şerif Gören and starring Tarık Akan is now streaming on MUBI so I wanted to write about it.
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All Eyes on Istanbul Film Series #3: Beyoğlu'nun Arka Yakası
This compelling 1986 film stars the legendary Tarık Akan as a civil servant who suddenly finds himself in the middle of a debaucherous, precarious night in a seedy, crime-ridden Beyoğlu.
https://flanor.substack.com/p/all-eyes-on-istanbul-film-series-e9e
9 months ago
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My latest: This compelling 1986 film directed by Şerif Gören and starring Tarık Akan is now streaming on MUBI so I wanted to write about it.
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All Eyes on Istanbul Film Series #3: Beyoğlu'nun Arka Yakası
This compelling 1986 film stars the legendary Tarık Akan as a civil servant who suddenly finds himself in the middle of a debaucherous, precarious night in a seedy, crime-ridden Beyoğlu.
https://flanor.substack.com/p/all-eyes-on-istanbul-film-series-e9e
9 months ago
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reposted by
Paul Benjamin Osterlund
Ciddiyet
9 months ago
Güne uyandığımdan beri Oval Ofis rezaletinden başka bir şeye odaklanamadım neredeyse. Farklı bir şey okumak iyi geldi. 👍
add a skeleton here at some point
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yeni yazım:
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Aposto | İstanbul'un iki yakası, iki balık pazarı: Kadıköy ve Beyoğlu
Fotoğraflar: Kaan Walsh Eşsiz Boğaz'ın birbirine bağladığı denizlerle çevrili İstanbul, yüzyıllardır bu suların zenginlikleriyle beslenmiş. Balıkçı kasabalarıyla çevrelenmiş bu şehrin balıkla...
https://aposto.com/s/istanbulun-iki-yakasi-iki-balik-pazari-kadikoy-ve-beyoglu
9 months ago
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My latest:
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Istanbul’s Best Hummus at Antakya İşi Sokak Lezzetleri
Antakya İşi Sokak Lezzetleri has already become a Beyoğlu favorite, run by legendary waiter Doctor Mehmet and featuring the excellent humus of the iconic İbrahim Usta, in addition to street food stapl...
https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/istanbul/2025/antakya-isi-sokak-lezzetleri/
10 months ago
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How is it possible that nearly everyone on this site has the same opinions 🧐
10 months ago
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yeni yazım:
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Aposto | Mekanlar değişirken: Dünden bugüne İstanbul'un canlı müzik sahnesi
2008'den beri İstanbul'da müzik yapıyorum. Peyote, Kemancı, Dogzstar, Mojo, Shaft, Indigo, Eski Babylon, Bronx ve unuttuğum daha niceleri teker teker kapılarını kapattılar. Öte yandan bir yandan da İs...
https://aposto.com/s/mekanlar-degisirken-dunden-bugune-istanbulun-canli-muzik
10 months ago
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My latest:
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All Eyes on Istanbul Film Series #2: Dönersen Islık Çal
This brave and touching 1992 film about the bond formed between a dwarf bartender and a trans sex worker is set in the backdrop of an eerie Beyoğlu at night.
https://flanor.substack.com/p/all-eyes-on-istanbul-film-series-7d4
10 months ago
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My latest:
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Two classic Istanbul meyhanes in Yedikule and Beyoğlu: The tales of Safa and Seviç
These two storied establishments are living legends, functional torchbearers of Istanbul meyhane culture. Not many of their ilk remain in The City.
https://flanor.substack.com/p/two-classic-istanbul-meyhanes-in
10 months ago
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Yeni yazım: Kadeh izlerinin peşinde iki İstanbul klasiği: Safa ve Seviç meyhaneleri
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Aposto | Kadeh izlerinin peşinde iki İstanbul klasiği: Safa ve Seviç meyhaneleri
Fotoğraflar: Kaan Walsh İstanbul'un Yedikule semtinde bir gezintiye çıkıyoruz. Gün, zamana meydan okuyan bir şehrin Bizans, Osmanlı ve Cumhuriyet dönemlerine uzanan tarihiyle karşılaşmalarla ...
https://aposto.com/s/iki-istanbul-klasigi-safa-ve-sevic-meyhaneleri
10 months ago
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My latest:
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All Eyes on Istanbul Film Series #1: Muhsin Bey
For a new series on films prominently featuring Istanbul in different time periods, it seemed imperative that Yavuz Turgul & Şener Şen's masterpiece Muhsin Bey should be my first choice.
https://flanor.substack.com/p/all-eyes-on-istanbul-film-series
11 months ago
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reposted by
Paul Benjamin Osterlund
the Mountain Goats
11 months ago
Democratic president on the way out the door: “Here’s another 8 billion dollars to finish annihilating Gaza” Democratic politicians at the midterms: “why aren’t the young folks down with the resistance?🤔🤔🤔🤷🏻🤷🏻🤷🏻”
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My latest: 🍲
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The Soup is Always On: Istanbul's 24/7 Soup Shops
In Istanbul, soup can be every meal. No matter what hour of day or night, there are places across the city serving up dozens of delicious, comforting soups. Here is their story:
https://flanor.substack.com/p/the-soup-is-always-on-istanbuls-247
11 months ago
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yeni yazım:
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Aposto | Günden geceye: İstanbul çorbacıları
Fotoğraflar: Ci Demi Türkiye’de çorba, zengin ve katmanlı mutfağın temel yapı taşlarından biri. Kimileri için dolu dolu bir yemeğin başlangıcı, kimileri için ise içkili bir gecenin kapanışıdı...
https://aposto.com/s/gunden-geceye-istanbul-corbacilari
11 months ago
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İbrahim usta's famous hummus, excellent Antep lahmacun, delicious döner marinated for two days and only served once a week, delectable piri piri chicken and an outstanding Oklahoma onion smash burger were my Istanbul Best Bites in 2024 for Culinary Backstreets
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The Best Bites of 2024 in Istanbul, Turkey
The Best Bites and favorite eateries from our year in Istanbul, as told by our local correspondents.
https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/istanbul/2024/best-bites-2024-9/
12 months ago
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reposted by
Paul Benjamin Osterlund
Cengiz Yar
12 months ago
"The number of subscriptions you need to stay informed across entertainment and news is insane, unmanageable, and expensive. Consumers are overwhelmed by information and disoriented by complicated choices."
@semaforben.bsky.social
@niemanlab.org
www.niemanlab.org/2024/12/back...
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With the sudden collapse of Bashar al-Assad’s regime in Syria, I wanted to reflect on how the protracted civil war resulted in hundreds of thousands of Syrian refugees settling in Istanbul, opening restaurants & changing the landscape of the food scene.
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How Syrian refugees enriched Istanbul's culinary scene
After escaping civil war, the Syrian refugee community that settled in Istanbul brought along their culinary traditions, enhancing the diversity of The City's food culture in the process.
https://flanor.substack.com/p/how-syrian-refugees-enriched-istanbuls
12 months ago
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Paul Benjamin Osterlund
Tom Stevenson
12 months ago
www.lrb.co.uk/blog/2024/de...
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Tom Stevenson | Road to Damascus
Part of the reason for Assad’s rapid collapse is that his international backers – Russia, Iran, Hizbullah – were...
https://www.lrb.co.uk/blog/2024/december/road-to-damascus
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Hello! This is the fastest I've reached 1K followers on any platform. A short introduction: I'm an independent journalist reporting from Turkey for the past decade. I've lived in Istanbul for 14 years. My favorite activity is taking hours-long walks all over The City.
12 months ago
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Paul Benjamin Osterlund
Lizzie Porter
12 months ago
The flag used by
#Syrians
opposed to Assad has been raised over the consulate in
#Istanbul
. Message dated today saying that because of “technical” reasons the consulate cannot issue passports at the moment but Syrians wishing to return home can get documents allowing them to cross.
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Paul Benjamin Osterlund
Diego Cupolo
12 months ago
Murat Erdoğan, a migration expert at IGAM Academy, estimates 10-15% of Syrians in Turkey will return to their native country in the coming years. “The expectation among the Turkish public is unbelievably high,” he said, referring to return rates. "We have to be a little bit realistic.”
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My latest:
flanor.substack.com/p/a-love-let...
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A Love Letter to Lahmacun
From Bakırköy to Ümraniye, I explored some of my favorite Istanbul lahmacun joints. Here's an ode to one of this region's most beloved oven-baked delicacies:
https://flanor.substack.com/p/a-love-letter-to-lahmacun
12 months ago
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Watching Uçurtmayı Vurmasınlar, which was beautifully restored by
@mubi.bsky.social
about 1 year ago
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We really need a brigade of right-wing trolls and tankies to balance out all the libs on here.
about 1 year ago
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Yeni yazım: İnce hamur, büyük hikaye: Lahmacunun peşinde bir gün
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Aposto | İnce hamur, büyük hikaye: Lahmacunun peşinde bir gün
Fotoğraflar: Ci Demi Türkiye’de lahmacunu sevmeyen var mıdır? Sanmıyorum. Günümüzde İstanbul'daki birçok mekanın da vegan ve glutensiz lahmacun versiyonları sunmasının bir nedeni ona karşı duyul...
https://aposto.com/s/ince-hamur-buyuk-hikaye-lahmacunun-pesinde-bir-gun-04b
about 1 year ago
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My latest for Culinary Backstreets about Ata Lokantası, an excellent restaurant in Sanayi Mahallesi that serves some of the best döner in İstanbul (only on Fridays) 🥙
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Ata Lokantası: Döner Fridays
Ata Lokantası, a fantastic esnaf lokantası (tradesman's restaurant) that has been open since the late 1980s, and serves a rotating menu of comforting, homestyle dishes and a Friday döner special.
https://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/istanbul/2024/ata-lokantasi/
about 1 year ago
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