There's never much going on here, is there?

What has it been like living in the same Moscow building, with the same cast of characters, for the past seven years, as Moscow, and Russia, has changed course? kotelnaya.substack.com/p/the-grille...

Tales from seven years in one Moscow building -- be friends with your neighbours, as my late neighbour Dmitriy Ivanovich, whose grandfather was denounced by a neighbour, told me kotelnaya.substack.com/p/the-grille...

Weird things happening with Moscow mobile internet. While its down in parts of the centre, a few apps which have needed VPNs for months -- WhatsApp, Instagram, Signal -- are now working for me on mobile data without a VPN.

Sheila Fitzpatrick really is the best in the business www.lrb.co.uk/the-paper/v4...

There's so much football writing out there these days, and, unlike the halcyon days of peak football twitter between 2008 and 2012, most of it isn't worth reading. But, every now and then, great storylines bring out the best in the great football writers

Хотя снег еще лежит и для прогулок все еще нужны ботинки, есть, наконец то, признаки того, что в Москву приходит весна. Воздух пахнет иначе, светит солнце, и на деревьях в моем дворе появились первые почки.

It is surreal that we are still locked in the never-ending debate over whether military intervention on behalf of democracy and human rights is good, when the current administration has been extremely explicit they are not intervening on behalf of democracy and human rights

Iran, by the way, are supposed to be playing New Zealand in California in their opening World Cup game in just over 15 weeks time.

There is still an Ural Airlines flight from Yekaterinburg to Dubai flying over Iran. Most flights I've taken to Dubai, whether from Moscow, Istanbul or the UK have flown over Iran. No more, I guess.

Took me a while to get round to reading this but what a story. The New Yorker at its best www.newyorker.com/magazine/202...

Some interesting reporting absolutely and needlessly destroyed by the Guardian's art department www.theguardian.com/world/ng-int...

In all my years here, I can't remember such sustained snowfall in Moscow over a 2-3 week period. It's been snowing for about 4 days straight now and a couple of weeks ago we had 5 continuous days of snowfall. I remember heavy snowfall, especially in 2017, but never so prolonged.

Kotelnaya Weekly, with some thoughts about why that New York Times Russia correspondent job speaks to a wider disaster for the future of Russia coverage in the Anglosphere -- the rest of the West's journalists are largely still here, btw kotelnaya.substack.com/p/kotelnaya-...

Ferocious blizzards for the lat 12 hours in Moscow. It's brutal out there. My walk to Krasnoe Beloe just now was like a full polar expedition.

The second instalment of Kotelnaya Weekly, on the film of the Thaw era, what I think is a disaster for Russian journalism, how Viktor Tsoi and Kino taught me Russian and reflections on the Tsoi exhibition in St P. kotelnaya.substack.com/p/kotelnaya-...

The second instalment of Kotelnaya Weekly, on the film of the Thaw era, what I think is a disaster for Russian journalism, how Viktor Tsoi and Kino taught me Russian and reflections on the Tsoi exhibition in St P. kotelnaya.substack.com/p/kotelnaya-...

Non Moscow post, sorry, but what a win for my one-time local team Galatasaray. I remember a few special Champions League nights there. What a place. www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2k0...

It's quite something to see EU bankers begin to say the same sorts of things about Visa and Mastercard and payment processing that Russian bankers were saying from about 2010 onwards www.ft.com/content/fcc2...

Last week in Moscow - Indian restaurants, the Turkish and Russian languages and their approach to ethnicity, Cubans clearing snow in Krasnogorsk kotelnaya.substack.com/p/kotelnaya-...

My monthly trip to Falanster to pick up Russian journals followed by a walk to Clovelly, a pub in Moscow made up completely of antique furniture from a village in Cornwall

The first Kotelnaya Weekly, a collection of things from around Moscow and the internet that I found interesting in the last 7 days. This week: masala, a beerhall, Adam Tooze's Chinese 1989 and ethnicity in the Turkish and Russian languages kotelnaya.substack.com/p/kotelnaya-...

I have no idea what the word "Exclusive" means in journalism anymore. In what way are these articles on the FT exclusives? They're summaries of emails the whole world has access to. What is exclusive about reading publicly-available emails and writing a story about them?

It might sound strange, at minus 13, but there's a hint of spring in Moscow today. The sun is shining, so much so that I've had to open the windows in my flat because it's too warm, birds are chirping and the ice is melting. We're creeping steadily towards zero from next week.

Wow, Industry season 4 is terrible, just designed to shock. It's popularity, and the more money HBO spend on it and its promotion, is inverse to quality. The first season was great, but nobody watched it so HBO made sure the second season was previewed everywhere and it became a hit.

Some of my friends sit around every evening and they worry about the times ahead, but everybody else is overwhelmed by indifference and the promise of an early bed — Elvis Costello in 1980 perfectly describing Moscow in 2026

The last few years have been extremely instructive about the publishing industry in the UK and US. 1) Make bold overarching claim (about Russia in most cases) 2) Use popular semi-academic buzzwords 3) Ensure a complex explanation of something quite simple 4) Pander to reader bias

Burger King’s operations in Russia have been totally unaffected by sanctions, so much so that they now have a range of frozen Burger King products in Russian supermarkets

After a few days of near-constant snowfall, it’s minus 20 and blue skies in Moscow today. Municipal workers are on roofs, shovelling snow onto the ground. If you’re sat by the window, watching huge chunks of snow fall in front of you, it feels a bit like a drive-in car wash.

I like Orhan Pamuk’s work, especially Snow, but The Museum of Innocence is absolutely unbearable. I see what the middle section, with 200 pages of endless repetition and 8 years of visits to the same house, tries to do but it’s just endless grind, labouring the same point.

When I saw that video doing the rounds, I presumed it was just some classic American rage bait. But it seems it was serious and the New York Times has now published a piece explaining to the weirdest nation on earth why the rest of us... open our windows. www.nytimes.com/2026/01/29/r...

There have always been Indian restaurants in Moscow, many of them quite bad. The one exception was always Jai Hind, off Prospekt Mira. It’s still the best, by far, but the quality of Indian restaurants and the preponderance of Indian chefs and waiters has skyrocketed recently.

Snow has been coming down in Moscow for about 48 hours now

A 109-year-old Soviet war veteran -- who was born in 1917, sailed on the Yermak icebreaker, fought in the defence of Leningrad, worked as a doctor post-war and moved to Toronto in 2002 -- has died. What a life. www.fontanka.ru/2026/01/26/7...

A new bar has just opened up near me, about a 3 minute walk away across the dvor. That's the good news. The bad news is they serve beer in 400ml pilsner glasses, despite not serving any pilsner.

My next post, next week, is going to be about how the late Vladimir Zhirinovskiy, known now to everyone as Zhirik, has reached much more people as an Insta/TikTok meme than he did in life. His memeificiation was complete with a few left friends quoting clips of him in the pub

Russian coal exports are back up, after three years of decline. The main difference, from the previous three years, seems to be that South Korea has begun to import coal from Russia in large quantities www.vedomosti.ru/business/art...

This week's piece about my favourite lunch spot closing down after 8 years and the enshitification of Moscow's Patriarch's Ponds neighbourhood kotelnaya.substack.com/p/the-slow-d...

In 2025, 17 restaurants, bars and coffee shops in Moscow's Patriarch's Ponds closed. It used to be the place to be seen. What does it's slow decline tell us about Moscow in 2026? kotelnaya.substack.com/p/the-slow-d...

A new post: The Slow Death of Patriarch's Ponds, or how influencers enshitified a neighbourhood open.substack.com/pub/kotelnay...

A new development from the middle of December, for me at least, is that WhatsApp no longer works in Russia without a VPN. A minor inconvenience, as I always have a VPN on anyway, but it seems people are being heavily nudged towards MAX.

So the US imposes economic sanctions on other countries when they annex part of or invade a sovereign state but is also set to impose economic sanctions (tariffs) on it's supposed allies because those allies don't support the US annexing part of a sovereign state. Western values at work.

Nizhny Novgorod https://www.wikiart.org/en/aristarkh-lentulov/nizhny-novgorod-1925

Moscow, after the deluge

Coming from the UK, where there has been snowfall overnight and the country is at a standstill, I’m always surprised by how a severe snowstorm is shrugged off in Moscow. The bin men are still out.

I've been reading Owen Hatherley for close to two decades now. There's no other British author quite like him. His most recent NLR piece is fantastic. newleftreview.org/issues/ii155...

Lovely thick snowflakes lazily falling out of the sky in Moscow today.

I've seen lots of "this is what we will do if the US seizes Greenland" from EU politicians but (and I may have missed something) I haven't seen anyone calling for sanctions? In 2022 we were told sanctions were a natural and inevitable consequence of invasion and/or annexation

My main impression from being back in my small north west of England hometown over Christmas and New Year is just how many people, of all ages, seem to be taking ozempic or similar drugs. It's everywhere.

One of my favourite pre-revolutionary buildings in Moscow, the Loan Treasury Building, which was completed in 1916 and now houses the Russian Central Bank vaults.