Es werde (Neon)licht. Harmonious geometric letterforms from Nürnberg, which we visit in chapter ten of ‘Neon Deutschland’.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Harmonious geometric letterforms from Nürnberg, which we visit in chapter ten of ‘Neon Deutschland’.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Our journey nears its end. The penultimate chapter of ‘Neon Deutschland’ brings us to Nürnberg, where this wonderful sign for a popular pharmaceutical company can still be found.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Our journey nears its end. The penultimate chapter of ‘Neon Deutschland’ brings us to Nürnberg, where this wonderful sign for a popular pharmaceutical company can still be found.

Es werde (Neon)licht. The city of Ludwigsburg, just north of Stuttgart, is home to a royal palace, one of Germany’s most legendary recording studios … and these two fine Umlauts.

Es werde (Neon)licht. The city of Ludwigsburg, just north of Stuttgart, is home to a royal palace, one of Germany’s most legendary recording studios … and these two fine Umlauts.

Es werde (Neon)licht. While ‘Neon Deutschland’ was a lot of fun to make, each chapter involved difficult decisions. This wonderful sign from Esslingen, for instance, featured in an early draft of the book, but sadly didn’t make the final version.

Es werde (Neon)licht. While ‘Neon Deutschland’ was a lot of fun to make, each chapter involved difficult decisions. This wonderful sign from Esslingen, for instance, featured in an early draft of the book, but sadly didn’t make the final version.

Es werde (Neon)licht. The city of Heilbronn (which we visit in Chapter 10 of ‘Neon Deutschland’) had a handful of cool signs, but none cooler than this one for a radio repair shop.

Es werde (Neon)licht. The city of Heilbronn (which we visit in Chapter 10 of ‘Neon Deutschland’) had a handful of cool signs, but none cooler than this one for a radio repair shop.

Es werde (Neon)licht. On the opposite bank of the Neckar from central Stuttgart, the spa town of Bad Cannstatt has a small but wonderful assortment of neon signs. Note the spectacular double-f in this example.

Es werde (Neon)licht. On the opposite bank of the Neckar from central Stuttgart, the spa town of Bad Cannstatt has a small but wonderful assortment of neon signs. Note the spectacular double-f in this example.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Your Monday coffee comes from the fine city of Stuttgart, which we visit in chapter ten of ‘Neon Deutschland’

Es werde (Neon)licht. Your Monday coffee comes from the fine city of Stuttgart, which we visit in chapter ten of ‘Neon Deutschland’

Es werde (Neon)licht. The journey to Fulda – which we visit in Chapter Nine of ‘Neon Deutschland’ – was worth it for this sign alone.

Es werde (Neon)licht. The journey to Fulda – which we visit in Chapter Nine of ‘Neon Deutschland’ – was worth it for this sign alone.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Your weekend Umlaut comes from Friedberg, half an hour north of Frankfurt; this was one of a number of surviving neon signs that could be spotted along the town’s high street.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Just north of Frankfurt, the towns of Friedberg and Bad Nauheim had an excellent selection of surviving signage. This one, from Bad Nauheim, goes out to all fellow record enthusiasts.

Es werde (Neon)licht. During our time in Frankfurt (Chapter Nine of ‘Neon Deutschland’) we discovered that coffee and neon go rather well together.

Es werde (Neon)licht. In Chapter Nine of ‘Neon Deutschland’ we visit Frankfurt, the birthplace of a certain famous writer. Unfortunately this sign – which was still working as recently as 2022 – was removed during the making of the book (the Apotheke itself is still there).

Es werde (Neon)licht. Chapter Eight of ‘Neon Deutschland’ concludes in Karlsruhe, where there is still a fair amount of neon to be found. The three coloured rings on this Cafe sign were an especial delight.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Long Umlaut for a long weekend: our journey down the Rhine takes a small detour to Heidelberg, where a handful of the neon signs in the old town still work.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Further down the Rhine in Mannheim we find our long-weekend Umlaut, accompanied by a reasonably austere long s.

Es werde (Neon)licht. In Mainz (Chapter 8 of ‘Neon Deutschland’) we also stocked up on Agfa film.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Our next stop along the Rhine (Chapter 8 of ‘Neon Deutschland’) is Mainz – the city of Gutenberg – home to numerous neon treasures, including this groovy sign for a now-defunct bar.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Our journey down the Rhine (Chapter Eight of ‘Neon Deutschland’) calls next at Wiesbaden, where the ensemble of signs belonging to this prominent local optician are still in good working order.

Es werde (Neon)licht. From Bonn we follow the Rhine to Koblenz, where dance lessons await.

Es werde (Neon)licht. In the eighth – and longest – chapter of ‘Neon Deutschland’ we visit a number of cities along the mighty Rhine. Our first stop is Bonn, home of this regal cinema sign.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Köln is also – perhaps unsurprisingly – home to numerous wonderful neon Umlauts.

Es werde (Neon)licht. There are many great neon signs in Köln, but few as iconic as the Reissdorf Biermännchen. Not only does the animated arm raise a glass of beer, but the ‘Er trinkt’ turns into ‘Sie trinkt’.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Another brilliant sign from Köln. Dunnerkiel, incidentally, was a Kräuterlikör manufactured by the local Laufenberg distillery.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Chapter Seven of ‘Neon Deutschland’ brings us to Köln, where the spirit of post-war neon continues to flourish.

Es werde (Neon)licht. In Chapter Six of ‘Neon Deutschland’ we also visit Neuss, home to this grand neon ensemble belonging to a furniture shop that no longer exists.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Chapter Six of ‘Neon Deutschland’ also takes us to the wonderful city of Wuppertal, where Germany’s finest typewriter ribbons were once manufactured in the shadow of the Schwebebahn.

Es werde (Neon)licht. For most of the last 90 years there has been some form of Persil sign atop the Wilhelm-Marx-Haus (Düsseldorf’s first high-rise, built in 1924).

Es werde (Neon)licht. Your weekend Umlaut comes from Düsseldorf, which we visit in Chapter Six of ‘Neon Deutschland’. This is a rare example of an Infinity Umlaut.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Our tour of the Ruhrgebiet (in Chapter 5 of ‘Neon Deutschland’) concludes in Essen, home of one of the more ostentatious Umlauts we encountered on our travels.

Es werde (Neon)licht. In Bochum we found this glorious artefact from the age of pre-digital photography.

Es werde (Neon)licht. In Dortmund we found a sign that encapsulates pretty much everything we love about neon signs: more than just the cursive letterforms, it is the very spirit of mid-century modernity shining out into the early evening.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Chapter Five of ‘Neon Deutschland’ also takes us to Münster, where this wonderful sign for an electrical supply shop has managed to survive.

Es werde (Neon)licht. No neon journey through Westfalen would be complete without a stop for beer in Hamm.

Fiat Lux. In Chapter 5 of ‘Neon Deutschland’ we visit Westfalen and the Ruhrgebiet. Our journey begins in Bielefeld, where this sign for a former cinema still stands in the city centre.

Es werde (Neon)licht. This weekend’s Umlaut comes from Göttingen, to which we pay a brief visit in chapter four of ‘Neon Deutschland’.

Es werde (Neon)licht. Hannover (visited in chapter 4 of ‘Neon Deutschland’) is also home to this wonderful hat-shop sign.

Yesterday we saw our first copy of ‘Neon Deutschland’ in an actual shop (it was Bücherbogen in Savignyplatz).

Es werde (Neon)licht. In chapter four of ‘Neon Deutschland’ we visit Hannover, home of everyone’s favourite neon owl.

Es werde (Neon)licht. The third chapter of ‘Neon Deutschland’ also makes a brief stop in Bremerhaven, where the cursive remains of the Café National now welcome visitors to a Sushi restaurant.

Es werde (Neon)licht. In the third chapter of ‘Neon Deutschland’ we also visit Lübeck … where we encounter yet another wonderful lightning stroke Umlaut.

Es werde Neon(licht). One of Hamburg’s finest Umlauts to brighten your weekend.

Es werde (Neon)licht. In the third chapter of ‘Neon Deutschland’ we visit the Hanseatic city of Hamburg … and experience some of the pleasures of the harbour.