Some autumn scenes from this past week in Gimje, Goyang, Gyeongsan, and Yeongcheon.

“무당” by Kim Jung-hyun was painted in 1941, and I believe it is still being displayed at the MMCA campus in Gwacheon. I saw it there back in May. TIL it also appeared on a 1985 postage stamp in a series featuring important works of modern art.

Was a bit hazy but still a lovely view from Dorisa on Naengsan in Gumi, the earliest temple of the Silla dynasty.

“Yeongcheon Gothic.” Finished harvesting this year’s sweet potatoes today.

Golden hour from the subway.

Saturday afternoon in Cheongju; listening to Professor Kim Chang-nam and Jo Gyeong-ok, who both participated in the first album of 노래를 찾는 사람들. Performance included a tribute to Nochatsa’s founder, Kim Min-ki, who passed away last year.

For my latest Korea Times contribution I profiled the 25th anniversary exhibition of Cho Jong-goo’s guga Urban Architecture (구가도시건축). Writing it took me back to my master’s thesis on vanishing neighborhoods and resident-pedestrians’ experiences in different parts of Seoul.

The RAS Korea Library Collection was officially donated to Soongsil University today, and the IKCC Research Library opened too. Honorary President Colin Crooks unveiled the signboard with Soongsil University President Lee Yoon-jae.

Listened to some of Amitav Ghosh’s thoughts on Korea, violence and memory, and the challenges of writing about climate change at Kyobo earlier this week.

Given APEC has drawn so much attention to Gyeongju; a few photos from recent trips to four temples in different parts of the city (Bunhwangsa, Golgulsa, Girimsa, and Sambulsa).

Hard to believe 3 yrs have passed since the 10.29 이태원 참사 - a tragedy worsened by the Yoon admin’s diversion of police resources. Working-level officials took the fall while the Pres. spread conspiracy theories. Remember the lives lost, & the families still seeking truth.

Before moving to Cheongju in 1985, the Korean Air Force was based in what is now Boramae Park in Sindaebang-dong, Dongjak District, Seoul. To accommodate Buddhists in the Air Force, a temple was built on the grounds in 1971 and named Seongmuhoguksa by President Park Chung-hee.

Some excellent antique Sanshin-do seen this week in Daegu (Namjijangsa and Seobongsa) and Cheongdo (Yongcheonsa)

Made our annual trip to Daejeon Nat’l Cemetery for Chuseok. This year we came with fresh eyes, having listened to Im Jae-gun’s lecture on the cemetery’s history and read his book. We also brought the nephews to Hong Beom-do’s grave to pay respects and tell them the story of the illustrious general.

Venturino Ventura’s eclectic, code-defying genius… What a delight to have discovered this 1968 palazzina on Via Bruxelles in Rome!

Stopped to take a picture of Cheonggyecheon while cycling home yesterday afternoon from Jongno. Popped into the Central Temple of Cheondogyo and ran into the march for climate justice on the way too.

Saw more tigers, including in Hojak-do and Sanshin-do, at the Insa-dong Antique Fair!

First day back in Korea after just over three weeks away. Stopped briefly at the Gana Art Centre before two meetings in the afternoon. For Chuseok, the gallery is holding a small tiger-themed exhibit. It opened today, and includes a Sanshin-do, several Hojak-do, and a tiger-print folding screen.

Think local. Read local. I never pack books when traveling so I can buy at my destination. Popped into River Books in old Bangkok and found 3 interesting titles. Grabbed Gianni Biondillo’s La costruzione del potere, which re-examines Italian Fascist architecture in Bologna.

Landed in Bangkok early this morning. Waiting for my wife to join me tonight. Dropped my bag and strolled around Chulalongkorn University. Always fascinated by the tangles of electrical wires everywhere. Stopping now for Burmese food; Rakhine Green Papaya Salad (hot!!) and a very nice milk tea.

Latest issue of L’Espresso adds Modi to the trio.

My latest article was published a few days ago. I followed-up on a piece I wrote last fall about the fate of Dongducheon’s former STD Management Center as activists marked the one -year anniversary of their encampment to defend it from demolition. www.koreatimes.co.kr/amp/southkor...

Saint Catharine of Bologna was born on this day in 1413. Last night I popped into a small side chapel of Santuario del Corpus Domini where her body sits upright in a golden throne. Dressed in a nun's habit, she clutches a golden cross and a bible. Quite an eerie sight.

Had a good three days in Rome. Saw some amazing Church ceilings, and a whole lot of other great art and architecture. Walked just over 80 km. Traveling onwards to Bologna now.

Off to Italy shortly. Have a few days in Rome before heading to Bologna for a week-long Memory Studies course at the Università di Bologna, which is the world's oldest university in continuous operation! Will make a brief stop in Milan and then fly to Bangkok for 10 days of exploring.

One of the most memorable pieces from the 2023 Gwangju Biennale: Yuki Kihara's Phase 3 'Moana (Pacific Ocean).' UV print on Sāmoan tapa cloth. A forewarning against heightened resource extraction by foreign powers to assert their geopolitical dominance across the Pacific Ocean.

Visited Samgaksan and encountered various representations of Sanshin, the mountain spirit. The rock-carving in the first photo is located at a prayer site once frequented by Joseon-era noblemen. It is believed to have been created between 1861 and 1863.

Exciting to see works from the Yuhyeonjae (幽玄齋) Collection (displayed for the very first time in Korea!) at the POSCO Museum of Art, especially the excellent and original Joseon era Sanshindo!

Did a quick interview on air this afternoon about Yoon Dong-ju & Heaven, Wind, Stars and Poems (1948). Was greeted in the studio by some furry friends.

This week I had the honor to give a lecture for the Royal Asiatic Society on civilian massacres in Daegu-Gyeongbuk. At least 25 attended in person, and more joined online. My talk traced a history of state violence still largely unknown among both Koreans and foreigners, unlike Jeju 4.3 or Gwangju.

Last month, I unexpectedly found myself in Da Nang and Hoi An, Vietnam, spending a few days on vacation with family. At sunrise one morning, I took a motorbike with a Grab driver and visited two sites where Korean marines perpetrated civilian massacres in Feb. 1968.

Many independence fighters remain unknown bc of their progressive politics and opposition to post-liberation regimes. Yi Wŏn-sik (1913-1978) was one. A teacher-intellectual, he joined anti-Japanese and leftist labour struggles at 17, studied Esperanto, and used his medical practice to aid the poor.

At Seoul High Court today: the 11th Admin. Division dismissed appeals by 5 victims/bereaved families of the Ha My massacre, upholding the TRC’s rejection of their truth-seeking application bc they are foreigners and the killings - perpetrated by ROK troops - happened in Vietnam.

On this day day in 1979 a mid-air collision over the Ukrainian SSR killed 178, including all 17 members of Tashkent’s beloved soccer team, Pakhtakor, a symbol of Uzbek pride competing in the top Soviet league against Russian teams. Authorities stalled the news to hide air traffic control failures.

Lunch meeting at Hyehwa Rotary was followed by a mini history/culture tour today… learnt it was where Yeo Un-hyeong was assassinated, spotted a rally for a dead Christian cult leader from the 70s, checked out the Filipino market for the 1st time, and revisited the lovely Hyehwa Catholic Church.

Jogyesa is holding its Lotus Festival right now, and last week it made a big step forward in embracing one of the oldest practices in Korean folk belief by finally opening a Chilseongak for the worship of the spirit of the Seven Stars (Chilseong), which has origins in Taoism.

The piece I wrote for @southkoreapro about this project is finally published. It marks my twentieth article for the outlet and my fiftieth since I started writing!

Several months ago, I saw Ham Kyungah’s embroidered diptych of the Hiroshima and Nagasaki mushroom clouds at SeMA, created by North Korean artisans following her designs. Sharing it on today’s anniversary of the Hiroshima bombing as it had prompted reflection.

Below this is a brief intro to the Gyeongsan Cobalt Mine Massacre, excavation work underway at the site, and truth-seeking efforts by bereaved families and journalists. It serves as a preview to my RAS lecture on Aug 12: "Civilian Massacres and the Politics of Memory in the Daegu–Gyeongbuk Region."

Spotted this evening in Gyeongju’s Dongbu-dong; Won Buddhist Gyo-dang, constructed from 1986 to 1987.

Some shots from this past week.

This Chinese juniper tree is only a short walk from home, but today was my first time seeing it. Uniquely, it has a straight trunk rather than a twisted one. Its exact age is unknown, but it is believed that its sapling was brought as a present from China and planted in 1476.

I look forward to delivering a lecture entitled "A History Not Yet Settled: Civilian Massacres and the Politics of Memory in the Daegu–Gyeongbuk Region" for the Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch on Tuesday, August 12. All are welcome to join. Details: bit.ly/4o7X2sB

Some snaps from meandering the side streets near Mia Station.

Back in Seoul today. Was at the UK Embassy for the launch of a new QR code/digital tour of the Battle of Imjin River. This project was produced independently of gov’t by the volunteer-driven British Korean War Memorial Committee, but w/ cooperation from Paju & sponsorship from UK-linked businesses.

Nice modernist house snapped from the car on Wednesday off Đường Lạc Long Quân in Điện Dương, Điện Bàn, Quảng Nam.

Some excellent recent reads. Stumbled on Saiichi Maruya’s A Mature Woman, which proved to be witty and clever, at the Kitazawa Bookstore in Tokyo. Finally came back and finished Tạ Duy Ahn’s The Termite Queen; a compelling rendering of the thorniest issues facing Vietnam today.

Last minute visa for Vietnam was thankfully approved. Looking back at some photos of different Cao Dai temples visited during my last trip, including the Holy See complex in Tây Ninh.

It’s rare to find a Gamno-do that breaks from purely traditional or mythological imagery to include elements of modern life. This is only the third I’ve come across, and it’s located at the Air Force Boramae Buddhist Temple.

A reflection on the Pledge of Imperial Subjects, prompted by a conversation with Jo Gyeong-ho and a recent visit to a stele inscribed with the pledge in Dalseong-gun: substack.com/@jackwgreenb...