Denali 2026 Coverage: Podcast with Summiteer – John Bartlic The Denali 2026 season is well underway, with a dated climber report as of June 1, 2026, of 513 climbers, mainly on the West Buttress… https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/06/17/denali-2026-coverage-podcast-with-summiteer-john-bartlic/

Everest 2026: Missing Sherpa Found Alive After six days isolated above base camp, Dawa "Hillary" Sherpa, 52, was found alive after rescuing himself. He had fallen into a crevasse near Camp 1 at around 19,500 feet, was trapped for two days, crawled out and then descended the Khumbu Icefall despite…

Everest 2026: Season Summary – Records, Crowds, Trash & Winds

Everest 2026: : Last Summits? We might have the final commercial summits in sporadic wind episodes, with more predicted. The no Os climbers had mixed results, as did the runners. Popular American no O's climber, Justin Sackett, turned back near the Balcony, while Kristin Harila summited with no…

Everest 2026: Another Wave of Summits We had at least 50 more summits on Monday morning, May 25th, 2026. I'm estimating there have been over 900 summit in total by members, guides and Sherpas. With only a few teams left, we are seeing the end of the season coming into view in breezy conditions,…

Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update – Nearing the End With the ropes to Everest and, now, Lhotse in place, there were multiple summits, including records on Sunday morning, May 17, 2026. With the weather improving, the route in, team after team has left base camp to be in position for their…

Everest 2026: A Few More Summits, Speed Runner is Climbing We had more summits overnight, and the no Os climbers and runners are on their way. American trail runner Tyler Andrews departed from Everest Base Camp at 8:25 pm local time on Friday evening to attempt to set the record for the fastest…

Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2, 2 More Deaths A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with Garrett at Everest Camp 2, 21,500 feet, during their summit push. They are targeting May 25, just a…

Everest 2026: The Western Team’s Turn, My Summit Anniversary After a Nepal-side record 274 summits on May 20, it's time for the Western teams to take their turn. As we've discussed, the Nepali operators follow the rope team as quickly as possible to summit, while the foreign (i.e., Western)…

Everest 2026: May 20 Summit Recap More summits!  Report after report had the Nepal side of Everest with massive crowds, probably over 150. A few teams have reported in, but we will need to wait for the official summit start to measure how big Wednesday morning, May 20, was. And there are many more…

Everest 2026: Ski Descent and More Summits More summits! The forecast of high winds may have kept many teams on hold, but we still saw a few summits on Tuesday, May 19, 2026. I'll update the totals when we know more.  #everest2026

Everest 2026: Weather Alert and More Summits Despite sporadic winds and a scary weather forecast, Monday, May 18, 2026, saw scores of summits on Everest and a few on Lhotse. The jetstream remains an issue, so I did a brief podcast with meteorologist Chris Tomer, who described the situation as…

With the ropes to Everest and, now, Lhotse in place, there were multiple summits, including records on Sunday morning, May 17, 2026. With the weather improving, the route in, teams are in position for their summit. Severe frostbite risks remain with high winds. www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/05...

Everest 2026: Ropes Reach Summit, Time to Wait After weeks of delays, the rope fixers finally reached the summit of Everest with the fixed line. However, the jet stream is about to sit over the summit for the next few days, making any attempts dangerous, if not deadly. It turned out that there…

Everest 2026: Everest Death, Lhotse Summit The Himalayan death toll is now at five, with two Everest climbers and one trekker on his way to climb Everest. An impromptu rope-fixing team has reached the Balcony around 8400 meters and expects to hand off to the regular rope fixers to continue to the…

Everest 2026: May 10 Weekend Update – Ropes to South Col, Everest Death The rope fixers got the fixed line to the South Col on Friday, May 8, 2026 and are on track to reach the summit by the 13th or earlier. As predicted, some Nepali teams have already positioned members at the Col to attempt the…

Everest 2026: Early Warning? The weather is bad on Everest. Heavy snow at EBC with high winds at Cmap 2. The rope fixing team is hunkering down until it passes. The good news is that this appears to be a short-term event. Now for the bad news. Meteorologists, Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions…

Everest 2026: Two Injured in Icefall, Serac Still There A small avalanche off Everest's West Shoulder fell onto the Khumbu Icefall, injuring two. It's a gift that there weren't more. The ropes reached Camp 3 today, keeping them on schedule to reach Everest's summit around May 14, and also Lhotse's…

Everest 2026: May 3 Weekend Update – Climbing! The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. Sherpas have established Camp 2, also known as Advanced Base Camp, with tents and other supplies. They will begin stocking it with an…

Everest 2026: Route to Camp 2 In—with Risks The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. The serac has not completely fallen, so it brings the question of how much risk each individual - client and Sherpa is willing to take?…

Everest 2026: April 27 Weekend Update – Icefall Route In? After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100 patients…

Everest 2026: April 19 Weekend Update – 8000er Summits, Icefall Woes After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100…

Everest 2026: April 12 Weekend Update – The Khumbu is Alive! Teahouses are buzzing, the trails are full, the yaks are loaded–as are the porters bearing unbelievable loads. Yes, the Khumbu is alive. But the weather is poor for some of the 8000ers. #everest2026

Everest 2026: April 5 Weekend Update – Debunking Poison Rumors In this weekend update, I cover a lot of ground, primarily around misinformation regarding "Everest Guides Poisoning Clients" - FALSE. The actual issue is a large-scale insurance fraud scheme targeting trekkers (not climbers) across…

I've been informed by the largest evacuation company, Global Rescue, that long-line rescues are unlikely to be available in the Himalayas this spring through their membership program. www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04...

Everest Base Camp is taking shape as two more of Nepal's eight 8,000-meter peaks see climbers arriving at their bases. This year, there are several interesting climbers to watch beyond the hundreds of aspirants on commercial teams. www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03...

The spring 2026 Everest climbing season BEGINS. The Icefall doctors are already at Base Camp, preparing to fix the ropes to Camp 2 in the upper Western Cwm. Teams have already sent Sherpas to reserve their traditional spots and have begun building tent platforms www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03...

The Icefall Doctors are on their way to Everest Base Camp to fix the lines in the Icefall. In the Podcast, I introduce the season and review some of my background posts on costs, total summits and deaths, route figures, and more. #everest2026 www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03...

As Everest 2026 approaches, social media buzz and clickbait headlines from mainstream and outdoor media spread misinformation, misleading readers. Let's clarify some rumors (noting I'm not perfect!) about the 7000-meter requirment and closing Everest's Tibet side www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/02...

The mainstream media is misrepresenting new Everest rules. Applicants now must have climbed a 7,000-meter mountain in Nepal. The bill still needs to pass lower house and be signed by the President, a process that could take months. No change spring 2026 season na.parliament.gov.np/en/bills/yZP...

In this podcast, I speak with Scott Parazynski, who is about as unique an individual as you will find these days. I hope you enjoy the episode and perhapshis book, The Sky Below: A True Story of Summits, Space, and Speed. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/02...

Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2026 edition This another BIg Picture post before my annual coverage of Everest 2025. The season is still a few months away, and I'll be posting several updates before the season officially begins in early April: - Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition - A deep…

Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition Welcome to my ongoing Everest 2026 coverage! 2026 marks my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me. Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition is an exhaustive review of data and…

Podcast with Ryan Mitchell & Justin Sackett: Plans for Two 8000ers, No O’s Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is preparing to climb two 8000-meter peaks, without supplemental oxygen, with his friend and professional mountain guide, Justin Sackett. In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its…

Everest 2026: Welcome to Everest 2026 Coverage Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2026 coverage, my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have climbed on the mountain…

7-Summits-in-One-Year-Podcast-with-Garrett-Madison As we close out 2025, I caught up with Garrett Maddison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, for a rare moment while he was home in the Seattle area. Garrett summited all of the Seven Summits (Messner List) in 2025, plus had some interesting times…

2025 Wrap Up & Talking Weather with Chris Tomer Mid-December is a quiet time in the mountaineering world, so I thought it would be nice to pick meteorologist Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solution’s brain on the upcoming winter season for mountaineering across the globe. And, of course, we have to…

Everest 2026: Khumbu Icefall Bypass-Real or a Dream? Mostly, local Nepalese media are promoting a new route bypassing the infamous Khumbu Icefall, claiming it to be shorter, faster, and safer, retracing the original path used by the British 1953 expedition that accomplished the first Everest…

Autumn 2025: Deadly Season Across the Himalaya The 2025 Himalayan Autumn climbing has been a deadly one with multiple deaths across several mountains. Similarly, several events occurred in the Alps, taking five lives. Authorities had warned strongly about heavy snow in the Himalaya and advised…

Autumn 2025: Dire Weather for Himalays Ahead, Everest NF Ski Descent Film Teaser Authorities and meteorologists are issuing dire warnings for climbers and trekkers in Nepal's Himalayas. Seizing the opportunity to pre-market the documentary of Jim Morrison's legendary ski descent down Everest's…

While teams summited Cho Oyu, a fifty-year-old American skied down the North Face of Mt. Everest. An Everest 1953 legend has passed away. Next up is Carstensz Pyramid, Kilimanjaro, Antartica's Vinson Massif and around the New Years, Argentina's Aconcagua. www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/10...

Podcast with Peter Hillary New Zealander Peter Hillary needs no introduction, as his last name recalls the historic achievement of his father, Sir Edmund Hillary, who, along with Tenzing Norgay, first summited Mt. Everest on May 29, 1953.  An adventurer in his own right, Peter has undertaken over…

Autumn 2025: Stranded Tourists, Manaslu Summits and More With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing…

Everest 2025 Podcast with Bianaca and Paul Adler Australians Bianca Alder, 17, and her dad, Paul Alder, 50, are back in Melbourne, Australia, after their recent Everest attempt. They were thwarted by strong winds and illness, but made a valuable attempt. Bianca's social posts have gone viral as…

Autumn 2025: Everest Ski Descent and Manaslu Records With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing…

World Alzheimer’s Day, September 21, 2025: • Alzheimer’s is not a normal part of aging and can also occur in people as young as their 40s or 50s (“early-onset Alzheimer’s”). • There is currently no cure; treatment focuses on symptom management and improving quality of life.

Autumn 2025: Nepal Unrest as Climbing Begins The Autumn Himalayan season is well underway with minimal impact from the violence and protest that occurred in mid-September in Kathmandu.

K2 Podcast with Ryan Mitchell–After K2 Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is back from his recent K2 attempt. They were thwarted by a deadly rockfall that killed two other people on other teams. They climbed to Camp 1 to see the conditions firsthand and abandoned their expedition. However, they…

Everest just became more expensive and unattractive to some On September 1, 2025, several new rules were enacted for mountaineering in Nepal. The most significant change was increased permit fees for Nepal's most popular peaks. The rest of the rules seem like window dressing or distractions…